On November 18th, Senator Anna Aratari sat down for a conversation with this month’s perfumer Julie Massé.

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Anna Aratari: Good afternoon Julie. Thank you for having us to your home along with your new-born baby, Arthur! Congratulations!

Julie Massé: Thank you, I’m very happy to have you here!

AA: We want to explore with you the background of your creation for FR!. But first, what was the experience that made you decide to become a perfumer?

JM: I think perfumery is in my blood. I don’t remember having ever imagine doing anything else but creating perfumes. My dad was into the industry, so at home there was always some raw materials or fragrances to smell. My sister and brother didn’t pay attention at all, but me, I was always really interested in it. I was always smelling everything. In fact, it was more the passion for raw materials that made me become a perfumer. For the story, when I was a child, I was having all my friends at home for my birthday, I was asking my dad for making a presentation and games about raw materials and perfumery, instead having something usual. When I meet people I knew twenty years ago, and they ask me “What are you doing now ? What is your job ?”, I answer “I’m a perfumer”, and they say “No! You are the only person who knew at 7 years old what she wanted to do”. It was my dream, and I tried everything to achieve this goal. It’s still a dream. I really wanted to do this but I didn’t know if I would be able to do it. I studied chemistry and I went to ISIPCA (the French school of perfumery). I saw it was important to have a diploma, because I didn’t know if I was able to do that, so it was the first step in the industry. Then I had the huge opportunity to meet Pierre Bourdon, because I was working for Fragrance Resource at this time, in quality control. He was going to be retired three years later, and he said “Ok, I am going to teach two young people”. It was just my dream!! It was incredible.

AA: Do you think being a perfumer is more like an art or a craft?

JM: A craft probably, because you become a perfumer. Of course the better way to learn is to learn with a master perfumer. Being close to him, learning all the raw materials, learning how to use them and how to mix them. At the beginning you are in the background, you just have to be there with people with a lot of experience. They are going to teach you how they translate words into smells. Here you learn what is the job, by learning all the raw materials, how to mix them and how much of each you have to use. At first, you can’t do creative things because you have to show that you know how to use all the materials. Of course creativity is the main ingredient and that’s what is interesting in our job—taking inspiration of anything. It can be just words, it can be painting, music or anything. What I love in my job is to translate feelings or flavors into perfumes. Pierre Bourdon was saying that we have to do some “narrative perfumery”. You have to write a formula as you wanted to tell a story. That’s really what I try to do. Each raw material is here to play a role in the fragrance.

AA: Do you have an ingredient you really love to use? Or one you would like to use more?

JM: I really love orange blossom. But I don’t put it in every creations of course. I love the tree. On one tree, you can have little grains, which are very green, you can have “neroli essence”, and you can have orange blossom absolute. This is amazing. It’s a story by itself. If I could do something right now, I would do something about “osmanthus”. There is something magic with these tiny flowers, this very strong smell, this melting of floral, fruity, ethereal and woody notes. It’s a fragrance by itself. It could be the first part and after we can build something around it.

AA: How did you feel when we approached you and you discovered the Fragrance Republ!c? How do you feel to be part of this new initiative?

JM: I was really, really interested by the presentation of FR!. I understood the idea that if you could create only one perfume, which one would you do? What kind of story would you tell about it?

AA: Exactly!

JM: I had no problem of constraint. You can just express yourself, your feelings. You have a chance, so you can take it and try. If people love the story and understand what you wanted to express, it’s done! For perfumers it’s amazing, it’s just a unique chance to have that kind of exposure. It’s like a secret garden of a perfumer.

AA: What was your inspiration for the beautiful fragrance you created that is FR! 01/02?

JM: The idea was to do a perfume around “tuberose”, but something new with this flower. How to treat it in a modern way, in my way. Tuberose is a very feminine flower with a very strong perfume, very “heady”. I wanted to do something lighter, more celestial. I tried to understand what makes you feel that this is tuberose but without all the heaviness. Then, I put some Rose of May absolute, and cocoa resinoid, because I wanted something bitter. I wanted something very feminine but lighter than the heavy and strong tuberose, while keeping its character.

AA: If this fragrance was a movie or an actress, what that would be?

JM: If it was a movie, I don’t know exactly which one, but it would be a movie that has a very intense and quite serious subject, but treated in a very light and funny way. If it was an actress, perhaps Audrey Hepburn, because she has this sensuality and femininity, but she was able to play movies with very fresh and funny manners. Something very smiley, but deep.

AA: Well, thank you, Julie and thanks for being a part of FR!

At the tender age of seventeen, Nathalie had a stunning revelation: she discovered Opium by Yves Saint Laurent and realized her dream was to become a perfumer. Though not a part of the fragrance industry’s inner circle, she met Jean-Louis Sieuzac, Opium‘s creator, who sent her to Grasse for olfactory training. After three years in Grasse, she joined Givaudan in 1986. In 1990, she moved to the US for four years, and in 2008, she joined Symrise as Senior Perfumer. Natalie enjoys projects of all shapes and sizes. She finds that niche projects crystallize her creativity, inspiring her for bigger projects. “There are not less important projects,” she says. “I try to tell a unique story in each of my creations. My perfumes are part of me, of course, but they also become part of their wearers’ lives.”

NATHALIE FEISTHAUER

Previous Creations:

  • Amouage Honour Man
  • Comme Des Garçons Series 6, 7, 8
  • Lancôme Hypnôse Senses
  • Montblanc Legend
  • Thierry Mugler Innocent Rock Angel
  • Yohji Yamamoto Yohji Yamamoto Pour Femme

About the Fragrance:

I created FR! 01/01 to honor the iris, specifically the concrete of Iris Pallida Florentina. The concrete, the creamy, solidified oil derived from the flower, is perhaps the single most precious material in a perfumer’s palette. I composed an olfactory frame to set off this scent’s natural beauty. Delicate, subtle touches of pear and a pinch of saffron magnify its multiple facets and invigorate its temporal progression.

 

Jean-Christophe grew up against the backdrop of perfume, as his father manufactured concentrates. While in his teens, his father gave him Joop for Men. “It was the first time I ever fell in love with a fragrance,” he recalls. Though he studied chemistry, it wasn’t until his father sent him to Grasse, as a trainee in a control laboratory, that he became intrigued by the fields of mimosa and the jasmine and tuberose absolutes.

JEAN CHRISTOPHE HÉRAULT

The real turning point came when he met Pierre Bourdon, the creator of Joop for Men, who agreed to mentor him on condition that he read all of Proust’s In Search of Lost Time. A year later, Bourdon began teaching him the method he’d learned from his mentor, Edmond Roudnitska. Jean-Christophe soon developed his own olfactory language, writing down what each raw material conjured up for him. Now at IFF, he works with incredible ingredients and dreams of creating a new olfactory family. Convinced that daring and creativity are essential to the fragrances of tomorrow, he strives to create perfumes which arouse forceful emotions.

Inspiration:

  • The earth after the rain in summer and the smell of privet flowers, which remind him of childhood vacations in Normandy.
  • Good food: “When you are an amateur of perfume, you are always very interested in food,” he says. He loves to prepare shellfish risotto with tarragon or a panna cotta.
  • Eloquent raw materials: cypriol because it is an almost virile type of wood; aldehydes for their metallic facets; benzoin; and, though it seems paradoxical, hedione.
  • Legendary fragrances: Farenheit by Dior, Joop for Men, Aromatics Elixir by Clinique, and Angel by Thierry Mugler.

Previous Creations:

  • Lulu Castagnette: Indomptée
  • Adolfo Dominguez: Agua Sandalo
  • Salvador Dalí: Daring Gold
  • Canali: Canali Man, Black Diamond, Summer Night (Men), Canali Style, Canali Dal 1934
  • Esprit: Connect For Us, Groovy Life by Esprit Woman
  • Grès: My Dream-Hommage à Marlene Dietrich
  • Luciano Soprani: Donna Soir
  • Ghost: Captivating
  • Yves Saint Laurent: Opium Vapeur de Parfum (with D.Ropion)
  • Comme des Garçons: Amazingreen
  • Balenciaga: Florabotanica (with O. Polge)
  • Chopard: Enchanted (with D. Ropion), Enchanted Golden Absolute (with D. Ropion)

About the Fragrance:

Jean-Christophe Herault always wanted to create a fragrance around osmanthus. “Osmanthus is a really beautiful flower both delicate and fresh with soft and clean juicy apricot, jasmine and light leathery and tea facets. In this fragrance, I expressed the delicacy and lightness of the flower while keeping it warm and sensual”. To achieve this equilibrium,  Jean-Christophe opens the composition with a sparkling citrus top of Bergamot Essence and Lemon Essence twisted with juicy transparent apricot notes. The light ethereal aspect of FR! 01/08 is underlined by a crisp vegetal and dewy tea accord sprinkled with crushed green Violet Leaves. The freshness and the naturality of the flower is developed in a rich and voluptuous heart of Tunisian Orange Flower Absolute LMR and Sambac Jasmine Absolute LMR. The fragrance becomes more sophisticated and deeper with a combination of leathery and chypre notes with Patchouli Heart Essence LMR. “It was a real pleasure to compose a fragrance feeling free of constraints and I hope you’ll enjoy it as much as I enjoyed creating it”.