FR! 01/05 creator Antoine Lie
We’re late posting this, but it’s easy listening. A fabulous perfumer, and an incredible voice!

perfumer-antonnie-loe

Anna Aratari : Good morning Antoine, good morning everybody ! Today we are in a French café, and we are going to talk about the present creation for Fragrance Republ!c

So Antoine Lie, what was the experience which made you decide to become a perfumer ?

Antoine Lie : Actually there is not an unique experience, it’s more an evolution of things. When I was young, I was very sensitive to smells. I prefer smelling dishes before eating them. This way I can guess if they are good or not, only with the nose. I have more olfactory memories than visual memories. I remember the smell of my room when I was very young, the smell of my teddy bear, the smell of some toys… It’s very peculiar but for me it’s essential. After that, I decided to make all my studies and all my education at school in the chemistry field because I knew it’s was the only chance I had to become a perfumer as my parents are not in the business. Then I realized the job of perfumer existed, so I tried to get into the school of Roure in Grasse (south of France). I send my resume and they told me “we can try with you because you are different, you are coming from outside of the industry but you seem to be very motivated, so let’s try”.

AA : Is there an ingredient that speaks to you more than another ?

AL : I’m more into the very strong and deep kind of raw materials, like vetiver, iris or leather. Things like that, more than any flower. That’s one part, but I also like to experiment different things and work with more strange or experimental brands. So I discovered very synthetic things like rubber, even metallic notes, which could be very interesting. If it’s balanced the right way, it could add something very new and interesting. Of course, I have my little raw materials that I love like the vetiver or the iris but I also try to see if there is anything to find into the synthetic part, a kind of industrial notes, that could be very repealing. The way you mix these notes can become the signature of the fragrance.

AA : What was your reaction when you discovered Fragrance Republ!c and why did you decide to take part of this project ?

AL : I was very pleased to be invited to join the club, because I like to take part to a new adventure. I was very intrigued. What I like the most is the fact it’s a Republic, that means it would speak more to people. Also the fact I’m the director and the creator of the fragrance means I’m going to propose you things, and you are going to decide if it’s ok or not. No rework. It’s exactly what I want to put on the market, and it’s not something you can find with any other clients. So it’s wonderful, you can really express yourself into something you believe in. There is nothing else like that.

AA : What was your inspiration for your creation FR! 01/05 that you named “Eau verte” ?

AL : Actually I wanted to try to do something that has not been done before of course, something different but not only artistic, that should be also wearable. So you have to find the right balance. But I always wanted to try to do something a little bit difficult in the market today, like with the aromatic notes, the minty notes, the artemisia notes, etc all those kind of things that are usually used as touch in a fragrance for giving some freshness. Here I wanted to make an overdose of all these notes to try to create something that wraps some musk or wood in order to describe a new signature. Something very tonic which can stay fresh for a long time. Even if it’s green and aromatic, it doesn’t smell medicinal, natural like cut grass. The story behind is that the fragrance was mainly done around wormwood.

AA : That’s interesting, we wanted to know a little bit more about this ingredient.

AL : Wormwood (or absinthe) is kind of a forbidden drink. It was called in the past “la fée verte” (the green fairy) that gives you this mystical impression and also it makes you dream. It was forbidden in the early last century, because it was described as something that can make you become crazy and give you hallucinations. I always loved to work with this dangerous and forbidden side. Sometimes it was described in some fragrances, but not over-dosed, so this is why I wanted to do something like that.

AA : The aspect of the absinthe is more aromatic ?

AL : Yes it’s aromatic, green, a little bit watery, liquorice, … There are a lot of different aspects. That brings a sort of new freshness, like a green bouquet.

AA : If this fragrance was a movie or actress who/what would it be?

AL : On one side the fragrance is kind of tonic, green, effervescent, and on another side it has a dangerous aspect so I would say the character of Uma Thurman in Kill Bill ! Because the character is crazy, dangerous, and she also has the strength and the tonic side. For me it’s a good example.

AA : Thanks a lot Antoine !…

On November 18th, Senator Anna Aratari sat down for a conversation with this month’s perfumer Julie Massé.

fragrance-theme

Anna Aratari: Good afternoon Julie. Thank you for having us to your home along with your new-born baby, Arthur! Congratulations!

Julie Massé: Thank you, I’m very happy to have you here!

AA: We want to explore with you the background of your creation for FR!. But first, what was the experience that made you decide to become a perfumer?

JM: I think perfumery is in my blood. I don’t remember having ever imagine doing anything else but creating perfumes. My dad was into the industry, so at home there was always some raw materials or fragrances to smell. My sister and brother didn’t pay attention at all, but me, I was always really interested in it. I was always smelling everything. In fact, it was more the passion for raw materials that made me become a perfumer. For the story, when I was a child, I was having all my friends at home for my birthday, I was asking my dad for making a presentation and games about raw materials and perfumery, instead having something usual. When I meet people I knew twenty years ago, and they ask me “What are you doing now ? What is your job ?”, I answer “I’m a perfumer”, and they say “No! You are the only person who knew at 7 years old what she wanted to do”. It was my dream, and I tried everything to achieve this goal. It’s still a dream. I really wanted to do this but I didn’t know if I would be able to do it. I studied chemistry and I went to ISIPCA (the French school of perfumery). I saw it was important to have a diploma, because I didn’t know if I was able to do that, so it was the first step in the industry. Then I had the huge opportunity to meet Pierre Bourdon, because I was working for Fragrance Resource at this time, in quality control. He was going to be retired three years later, and he said “Ok, I am going to teach two young people”. It was just my dream!! It was incredible.

AA: Do you think being a perfumer is more like an art or a craft?

JM: A craft probably, because you become a perfumer. Of course the better way to learn is to learn with a master perfumer. Being close to him, learning all the raw materials, learning how to use them and how to mix them. At the beginning you are in the background, you just have to be there with people with a lot of experience. They are going to teach you how they translate words into smells. Here you learn what is the job, by learning all the raw materials, how to mix them and how much of each you have to use. At first, you can’t do creative things because you have to show that you know how to use all the materials. Of course creativity is the main ingredient and that’s what is interesting in our job—taking inspiration of anything. It can be just words, it can be painting, music or anything. What I love in my job is to translate feelings or flavors into perfumes. Pierre Bourdon was saying that we have to do some “narrative perfumery”. You have to write a formula as you wanted to tell a story. That’s really what I try to do. Each raw material is here to play a role in the fragrance.

AA: Do you have an ingredient you really love to use? Or one you would like to use more?

JM: I really love orange blossom. But I don’t put it in every creations of course. I love the tree. On one tree, you can have little grains, which are very green, you can have “neroli essence”, and you can have orange blossom absolute. This is amazing. It’s a story by itself. If I could do something right now, I would do something about “osmanthus”. There is something magic with these tiny flowers, this very strong smell, this melting of floral, fruity, ethereal and woody notes. It’s a fragrance by itself. It could be the first part and after we can build something around it.

AA: How did you feel when we approached you and you discovered the Fragrance Republ!c? How do you feel to be part of this new initiative?

JM: I was really, really interested by the presentation of FR!. I understood the idea that if you could create only one perfume, which one would you do? What kind of story would you tell about it?

AA: Exactly!

JM: I had no problem of constraint. You can just express yourself, your feelings. You have a chance, so you can take it and try. If people love the story and understand what you wanted to express, it’s done! For perfumers it’s amazing, it’s just a unique chance to have that kind of exposure. It’s like a secret garden of a perfumer.

AA: What was your inspiration for the beautiful fragrance you created that is FR! 01/02?

JM: The idea was to do a perfume around “tuberose”, but something new with this flower. How to treat it in a modern way, in my way. Tuberose is a very feminine flower with a very strong perfume, very “heady”. I wanted to do something lighter, more celestial. I tried to understand what makes you feel that this is tuberose but without all the heaviness. Then, I put some Rose of May absolute, and cocoa resinoid, because I wanted something bitter. I wanted something very feminine but lighter than the heavy and strong tuberose, while keeping its character.

AA: If this fragrance was a movie or an actress, what that would be?

JM: If it was a movie, I don’t know exactly which one, but it would be a movie that has a very intense and quite serious subject, but treated in a very light and funny way. If it was an actress, perhaps Audrey Hepburn, because she has this sensuality and femininity, but she was able to play movies with very fresh and funny manners. Something very smiley, but deep.

AA: Well, thank you, Julie and thanks for being a part of FR!

At the tender age of seventeen, Nathalie had a stunning revelation: she discovered Opium by Yves Saint Laurent and realized her dream was to become a perfumer. Though not a part of the fragrance industry’s inner circle, she met Jean-Louis Sieuzac, Opium‘s creator, who sent her to Grasse for olfactory training. After three years in Grasse, she joined Givaudan in 1986. In 1990, she moved to the US for four years, and in 2008, she joined Symrise as Senior Perfumer. Natalie enjoys projects of all shapes and sizes. She finds that niche projects crystallize her creativity, inspiring her for bigger projects. “There are not less important projects,” she says. “I try to tell a unique story in each of my creations. My perfumes are part of me, of course, but they also become part of their wearers’ lives.”

NATHALIE FEISTHAUER

Previous Creations:

  • Amouage Honour Man
  • Comme Des Garçons Series 6, 7, 8
  • Lancôme Hypnôse Senses
  • Montblanc Legend
  • Thierry Mugler Innocent Rock Angel
  • Yohji Yamamoto Yohji Yamamoto Pour Femme

About the Fragrance:

I created FR! 01/01 to honor the iris, specifically the concrete of Iris Pallida Florentina. The concrete, the creamy, solidified oil derived from the flower, is perhaps the single most precious material in a perfumer’s palette. I composed an olfactory frame to set off this scent’s natural beauty. Delicate, subtle touches of pear and a pinch of saffron magnify its multiple facets and invigorate its temporal progression.