FR! 01/05 creator Antoine Lie
We’re late posting this, but it’s easy listening. A fabulous perfumer, and an incredible voice!

perfumer-antonnie-loe

Anna Aratari : Good morning Antoine, good morning everybody ! Today we are in a French café, and we are going to talk about the present creation for Fragrance Republ!c

So Antoine Lie, what was the experience which made you decide to become a perfumer ?

Antoine Lie : Actually there is not an unique experience, it’s more an evolution of things. When I was young, I was very sensitive to smells. I prefer smelling dishes before eating them. This way I can guess if they are good or not, only with the nose. I have more olfactory memories than visual memories. I remember the smell of my room when I was very young, the smell of my teddy bear, the smell of some toys… It’s very peculiar but for me it’s essential. After that, I decided to make all my studies and all my education at school in the chemistry field because I knew it’s was the only chance I had to become a perfumer as my parents are not in the business. Then I realized the job of perfumer existed, so I tried to get into the school of Roure in Grasse (south of France). I send my resume and they told me “we can try with you because you are different, you are coming from outside of the industry but you seem to be very motivated, so let’s try”.

AA : Is there an ingredient that speaks to you more than another ?

AL : I’m more into the very strong and deep kind of raw materials, like vetiver, iris or leather. Things like that, more than any flower. That’s one part, but I also like to experiment different things and work with more strange or experimental brands. So I discovered very synthetic things like rubber, even metallic notes, which could be very interesting. If it’s balanced the right way, it could add something very new and interesting. Of course, I have my little raw materials that I love like the vetiver or the iris but I also try to see if there is anything to find into the synthetic part, a kind of industrial notes, that could be very repealing. The way you mix these notes can become the signature of the fragrance.

AA : What was your reaction when you discovered Fragrance Republ!c and why did you decide to take part of this project ?

AL : I was very pleased to be invited to join the club, because I like to take part to a new adventure. I was very intrigued. What I like the most is the fact it’s a Republic, that means it would speak more to people. Also the fact I’m the director and the creator of the fragrance means I’m going to propose you things, and you are going to decide if it’s ok or not. No rework. It’s exactly what I want to put on the market, and it’s not something you can find with any other clients. So it’s wonderful, you can really express yourself into something you believe in. There is nothing else like that.

AA : What was your inspiration for your creation FR! 01/05 that you named “Eau verte” ?

AL : Actually I wanted to try to do something that has not been done before of course, something different but not only artistic, that should be also wearable. So you have to find the right balance. But I always wanted to try to do something a little bit difficult in the market today, like with the aromatic notes, the minty notes, the artemisia notes, etc all those kind of things that are usually used as touch in a fragrance for giving some freshness. Here I wanted to make an overdose of all these notes to try to create something that wraps some musk or wood in order to describe a new signature. Something very tonic which can stay fresh for a long time. Even if it’s green and aromatic, it doesn’t smell medicinal, natural like cut grass. The story behind is that the fragrance was mainly done around wormwood.

AA : That’s interesting, we wanted to know a little bit more about this ingredient.

AL : Wormwood (or absinthe) is kind of a forbidden drink. It was called in the past “la fée verte” (the green fairy) that gives you this mystical impression and also it makes you dream. It was forbidden in the early last century, because it was described as something that can make you become crazy and give you hallucinations. I always loved to work with this dangerous and forbidden side. Sometimes it was described in some fragrances, but not over-dosed, so this is why I wanted to do something like that.

AA : The aspect of the absinthe is more aromatic ?

AL : Yes it’s aromatic, green, a little bit watery, liquorice, … There are a lot of different aspects. That brings a sort of new freshness, like a green bouquet.

AA : If this fragrance was a movie or actress who/what would it be?

AL : On one side the fragrance is kind of tonic, green, effervescent, and on another side it has a dangerous aspect so I would say the character of Uma Thurman in Kill Bill ! Because the character is crazy, dangerous, and she also has the strength and the tonic side. For me it’s a good example.

AA : Thanks a lot Antoine !…

Jean-Christophe grew up against the backdrop of perfume, as his father manufactured concentrates. While in his teens, his father gave him Joop for Men. “It was the first time I ever fell in love with a fragrance,” he recalls. Though he studied chemistry, it wasn’t until his father sent him to Grasse, as a trainee in a control laboratory, that he became intrigued by the fields of mimosa and the jasmine and tuberose absolutes.

JEAN CHRISTOPHE HÉRAULT

The real turning point came when he met Pierre Bourdon, the creator of Joop for Men, who agreed to mentor him on condition that he read all of Proust’s In Search of Lost Time. A year later, Bourdon began teaching him the method he’d learned from his mentor, Edmond Roudnitska. Jean-Christophe soon developed his own olfactory language, writing down what each raw material conjured up for him. Now at IFF, he works with incredible ingredients and dreams of creating a new olfactory family. Convinced that daring and creativity are essential to the fragrances of tomorrow, he strives to create perfumes which arouse forceful emotions.

Inspiration:

  • The earth after the rain in summer and the smell of privet flowers, which remind him of childhood vacations in Normandy.
  • Good food: “When you are an amateur of perfume, you are always very interested in food,” he says. He loves to prepare shellfish risotto with tarragon or a panna cotta.
  • Eloquent raw materials: cypriol because it is an almost virile type of wood; aldehydes for their metallic facets; benzoin; and, though it seems paradoxical, hedione.
  • Legendary fragrances: Farenheit by Dior, Joop for Men, Aromatics Elixir by Clinique, and Angel by Thierry Mugler.

Previous Creations:

  • Lulu Castagnette: Indomptée
  • Adolfo Dominguez: Agua Sandalo
  • Salvador Dalí: Daring Gold
  • Canali: Canali Man, Black Diamond, Summer Night (Men), Canali Style, Canali Dal 1934
  • Esprit: Connect For Us, Groovy Life by Esprit Woman
  • Grès: My Dream-Hommage à Marlene Dietrich
  • Luciano Soprani: Donna Soir
  • Ghost: Captivating
  • Yves Saint Laurent: Opium Vapeur de Parfum (with D.Ropion)
  • Comme des Garçons: Amazingreen
  • Balenciaga: Florabotanica (with O. Polge)
  • Chopard: Enchanted (with D. Ropion), Enchanted Golden Absolute (with D. Ropion)

About the Fragrance:

Jean-Christophe Herault always wanted to create a fragrance around osmanthus. “Osmanthus is a really beautiful flower both delicate and fresh with soft and clean juicy apricot, jasmine and light leathery and tea facets. In this fragrance, I expressed the delicacy and lightness of the flower while keeping it warm and sensual”. To achieve this equilibrium,  Jean-Christophe opens the composition with a sparkling citrus top of Bergamot Essence and Lemon Essence twisted with juicy transparent apricot notes. The light ethereal aspect of FR! 01/08 is underlined by a crisp vegetal and dewy tea accord sprinkled with crushed green Violet Leaves. The freshness and the naturality of the flower is developed in a rich and voluptuous heart of Tunisian Orange Flower Absolute LMR and Sambac Jasmine Absolute LMR. The fragrance becomes more sophisticated and deeper with a combination of leathery and chypre notes with Patchouli Heart Essence LMR. “It was a real pleasure to compose a fragrance feeling free of constraints and I hope you’ll enjoy it as much as I enjoyed creating it”.