FR! 01/05 creator Antoine Lie
We’re late posting this, but it’s easy listening. A fabulous perfumer, and an incredible voice!
Anna Aratari : Good morning Antoine, good morning everybody ! Today we are in a French café, and we are going to talk about the present creation for Fragrance Republ!c
So Antoine Lie, what was the experience which made you decide to become a perfumer ?
Antoine Lie : Actually there is not an unique experience, it’s more an evolution of things. When I was young, I was very sensitive to smells. I prefer smelling dishes before eating them. This way I can guess if they are good or not, only with the nose. I have more olfactory memories than visual memories. I remember the smell of my room when I was very young, the smell of my teddy bear, the smell of some toys… It’s very peculiar but for me it’s essential. After that, I decided to make all my studies and all my education at school in the chemistry field because I knew it’s was the only chance I had to become a perfumer as my parents are not in the business. Then I realized the job of perfumer existed, so I tried to get into the school of Roure in Grasse (south of France). I send my resume and they told me “we can try with you because you are different, you are coming from outside of the industry but you seem to be very motivated, so let’s try”.
AA : Is there an ingredient that speaks to you more than another ?
AL : I’m more into the very strong and deep kind of raw materials, like vetiver, iris or leather. Things like that, more than any flower. That’s one part, but I also like to experiment different things and work with more strange or experimental brands. So I discovered very synthetic things like rubber, even metallic notes, which could be very interesting. If it’s balanced the right way, it could add something very new and interesting. Of course, I have my little raw materials that I love like the vetiver or the iris but I also try to see if there is anything to find into the synthetic part, a kind of industrial notes, that could be very repealing. The way you mix these notes can become the signature of the fragrance.
AA : What was your reaction when you discovered Fragrance Republ!c and why did you decide to take part of this project ?
AL : I was very pleased to be invited to join the club, because I like to take part to a new adventure. I was very intrigued. What I like the most is the fact it’s a Republic, that means it would speak more to people. Also the fact I’m the director and the creator of the fragrance means I’m going to propose you things, and you are going to decide if it’s ok or not. No rework. It’s exactly what I want to put on the market, and it’s not something you can find with any other clients. So it’s wonderful, you can really express yourself into something you believe in. There is nothing else like that.
AA : What was your inspiration for your creation FR! 01/05 that you named “Eau verte” ?
AL : Actually I wanted to try to do something that has not been done before of course, something different but not only artistic, that should be also wearable. So you have to find the right balance. But I always wanted to try to do something a little bit difficult in the market today, like with the aromatic notes, the minty notes, the artemisia notes, etc all those kind of things that are usually used as touch in a fragrance for giving some freshness. Here I wanted to make an overdose of all these notes to try to create something that wraps some musk or wood in order to describe a new signature. Something very tonic which can stay fresh for a long time. Even if it’s green and aromatic, it doesn’t smell medicinal, natural like cut grass. The story behind is that the fragrance was mainly done around wormwood.
AA : That’s interesting, we wanted to know a little bit more about this ingredient.
AL : Wormwood (or absinthe) is kind of a forbidden drink. It was called in the past “la fée verte” (the green fairy) that gives you this mystical impression and also it makes you dream. It was forbidden in the early last century, because it was described as something that can make you become crazy and give you hallucinations. I always loved to work with this dangerous and forbidden side. Sometimes it was described in some fragrances, but not over-dosed, so this is why I wanted to do something like that.
AA : The aspect of the absinthe is more aromatic ?
AL : Yes it’s aromatic, green, a little bit watery, liquorice, … There are a lot of different aspects. That brings a sort of new freshness, like a green bouquet.
AA : If this fragrance was a movie or actress who/what would it be?
AL : On one side the fragrance is kind of tonic, green, effervescent, and on another side it has a dangerous aspect so I would say the character of Uma Thurman in Kill Bill ! Because the character is crazy, dangerous, and she also has the strength and the tonic side. For me it’s a good example.
AA : Thanks a lot Antoine !